Part 1: From Cleveland to Finch Bay Resort
There are some places in the world that seem almost mythical—destinations you see in documentaries, read about in National Geographic magazines, or watch on nature programs, never quite believing in the mystique. For us, the Galápagos Islands is one of those places.
When my mother and father-in-law first suggested a family trip to the Galápagos, we thought they were a bit crazy. Visiting these remote islands, nearly 600 miles off the coast of Ecuador, wasn't just another vacation destination—it was one of the few places on Earth where wildlife still lives largely untouched by humans. Charles Darwin's observations forever changed our understanding of evolution, and where nature continues to make all the rules.
What made this opportunity even more special was that we would experience it together as a family.
Looking back now, I realize we had no idea what was ahead of us. We expected giant tortoises, blue-footed boobies, and incredible scenery. We expected to snorkel, hike, and photograph amazing wildlife.
What we didn't expect was to experience a place unlike anywhere we'd ever been.
The Journey Begins
Our adventure officially began in Cleveland with a mixture of nervous excitement and anticipation. Getting to the Galápagos isn't exactly easy—and honestly, that's part of why it's so special.
Our itinerary would take us from Cleveland to Houston, overnight to Quito, Ecuador, then another flight to Baltra Island before finally making our way to Santa Cruz Island.
The journey across Santa Cruz was an adventure in itself. We started with a short bus ride from the airport, crossed the Itabaca Channel by ferry, climbed into a truck for the drive across the island, then hopped aboard a small panga for the final crossing before one last walk to Finch Bay. By the time we arrived, we'd taken three flights and five different modes of transportation—proof that getting to paradise isn't always easy, but it's absolutely worth it!
That's exactly why we chose to spend a few days at Finch Bay Hotel before boarding the National Geographic Islander II. It gave us the chance to recover from the long journey, settle into island time, and savor the Galápagos at a slower pace before our expedition began.
From the moment we landed on Baltra Island, everything was surprisingly seamless. A Finch Bay representative met us outside baggage claim and handled every transfer, turning what could have been a complicated travel day into the first chapter of our adventure.
Discovering Finch Bay
Nestled on the quiet shores of Santa Cruz Island, Finch Bay Resort immediately felt like an oasis. With no road access, there were no crowds, and everything blended naturally into its surroundings, creating a peaceful retreat where wildlife and people seemed to coexist effortlessly.
The resort would become our home for the next several days, serving as both a place to relax and our introduction to the incredible biodiversity of the Galápagos.
One of the first things we noticed was that wildlife wasn't something you had to go searching for—it simply existed all around you.
White-cheeked pintail ducks casually wandered through the property. Great blue herons patiently hunted along the shoreline. Lava gulls—the rarest gull species in the world—appeared regularly throughout our stay. Watching eight lava gulls together one afternoon felt especially meaningful knowing only a few hundred remain in the world.
It was our first indication that the Galápagos truly operates differently than anywhere else on Earth.
A Father's Day We'll Never Forget
Our first full day also happened to be Father's Day.
While I certainly missed celebrating with my own dad back home in Ohio, I felt incredibly fortunate to spend the day with my father-in-law and the rest of our family in one of the most extraordinary places on the planet.
Some of us eased into island life with an early morning kayak through the waters surrounding Finch Bay. It didn't take long before wildlife began appearing around every corner.
Later that afternoon we participated in an Ecuadorian cooking class where we learned to prepare authentic ceviche using fresh local ingredients. After creating our own dishes, we enjoyed them together for lunch.
Our First Expedition
Our first true taste of Galápagos exploration came aboard the Sea Lion, a beautiful yacht that carried us to Las Bachas Beach and North Seymour Island.
Marine iguanas stretched across volcanic rocks as if posing for photographs. Brilliant red Sally Lightfoot crabs scurried over the lava rocks. The sand was impossibly white and the water unbelievably clear.
Our first snorkel was both exciting and humbling. Although the water was a bit choppy, we immediately encountered colorful tropical fish and watched an eagle ray glide gracefully beneath us. It felt like an underwater preview of what was still to come.
Then came North Seymour.
If you're like me, you've dreamed of seeing blue-footed boobies in the wild.
This was the place. They were everywhere.
Alongside them were magnificent frigatebirds with their enormous wingspans, lounging sea lions, and prehistoric-looking land iguanas. Every few steps revealed another incredible photo opportunity.
We found ourselves stopping constantly—not because the trail was difficult, but because we simply couldn't stop looking around.
Falling Into the Rhythm of Island Life
As the days passed, we settled into an easy rhythm.
Wake early.
Eat a nice breakfast.
Head out for an adventure or relax by the pool.
Return for lunch.
More relaxation by the pool.
Finish the day with cocktails, dinner, and stories about everything we'd seen.
Simple.
Breakfast quickly became one of my favorite daily rituals. Fresh fruit, warm bread, made-to-order omelets, local meats, cheeses and pastries.
Dinner, however, was where Finch Bay truly impressed.
The chefs consistently highlighted fresh seafood and local ingredients, producing beautifully plated meals that rivaled restaurants we've visited around the world. We quickly learned that ordering seafood was never the wrong decision. The ceviche's became a daily indulgence, each one showcasing different combinations of fresh fish, citrus, herbs, and island flavors.
Our final evening featured Galápagos lobster enjoyed poolside beneath the stars—a meal I'll remember for a very long time.
Every drink looked like something you'd expect to find on the cover of a travel magazine. Tropical fruits, fresh herbs, colorful garnishes, and creative presentations made it impossible to resist trying something new every day.
Scientific? No.
Delicious? Absolutely.
More Than Just a Resort
What made Finch Bay so memorable wasn't simply the beautiful accommodations or exceptional food.
Instead of rushing immediately into an expedition filled with early mornings, Zodiac rides, snorkeling, and hiking, we were given the opportunity to slow down and ease into the Galápagos.
We were able to adjust to island time.
We became familiar with the wildlife.
We discovered that every meal celebrated local ingredients.
Looking back, I can't imagine starting the trip any other way. Whether relaxing by the pool, enjoying exceptional meals, or taking our first wildlife excursions, those peaceful days at Finch Bay provided the ideal transition before embarking on the unforgettable expedition cruise.
Ready for the Adventure Ahead
Eventually, our relaxing introduction came to an end.
The next morning we packed our bags, took one last look at Finch Bay's peaceful pool, and began another series of buses, ferries, and boats—this time with a destination we'd been dreaming about for over a year.
Waiting for us was the National Geographic Islander II, our home for the next several days and our gateway to the most remote corners of the Galápagos.
We had no idea we'd kayak beside Galápagos penguins, snorkel with sea lions and sharks, hike across lava fields that looked like another planet, stand among thousands of nesting seabirds, and witness wildlife unlike anything we'd ever experienced.
As incredible as Finch Bay had been, we knew the real expedition was only just beginning.
Part 2: Expedition Life Aboard the National Geographic Islander II
Leaving Finch Bay Resort felt a little bittersweet. We had settled into the peaceful rhythm of Santa Cruz Island, enjoyed incredible meals, and already experienced more wildlife than we thought possible. But we knew the true adventure was still ahead of us.
Unlike a traditional cruise, this wasn't about casinos, shows, or days spent lounging by the pool. This was an expedition in every sense of the word. Every day promised new islands, new wildlife, and new adventures, all led by an exceptional team of naturalists whose passion for the Galápagos was contagious.
We had officially traded resort life for expedition life.
Welcome Aboard
Boarding the National Geographic Islander II was unlike boarding any ship we'd ever experienced.
The crew welcomed us with warm smiles as we stepped aboard, and before long we were settling into our cabins and attending safety briefings.
The rooms were were well appointed and comfortable.
With only 48 guests and a crew of 57, the ship felt very intimate. One surprise, however, was the makeup of our fellow travelers. Instead of a mix of couples and retirees as we'd imagined, the guest list was made up of six multigenerational families—a handful of grandparents mostly in their 80's, 15 or so parents in their 50s, and what felt like an endless number of teenagers. It wasn't quite the atmosphere we had expected, but with so few guests on board, everyone quickly became familiar faces.
What impressed us from the very beginning was how seamlessly the expedition was organized. Every detail had been thoughtfully planned.
Each evening, we gathered in the lounge for a briefing about the next day's adventures. Our expedition leaders walked us through the islands we would visit, the wildlife we might encounter, and what to expect from each excursion. Because no two islands were alike, every briefing built excitement for the day ahead.
One thing we especially appreciated was the flexibility. Each guest could choose the activity level that felt right for them, with options ranging from leisurely walks and Zodiac rides, to more strenuous hikes, longer snorkeling excursions, and kayaking. Even within our own family, everyone found their own pace, and that was perfectly okay. There wasn't a "right" way to experience the islands—only the way that allowed you to get the most out of this extraordinary place.
Another unique aspect of the Galápagos is that visitors are required to be accompanied by certified naturalist guides while exploring the national park. We traveled in small groups of about twelve guests, which made every hike feel personal and allowed plenty of opportunities to ask questions. The guides didn't just point out wildlife—they explained behaviors, conservation efforts, geology, and evolutionary history.
Learning the "Zodiac Shuffle"
If there's one thing we'll always associate with the Galápagos, it's Zodiacs.
Because there are no docks on the islands, every excursion began and ended with a ride aboard one of these inflatable boats. Whether we were heading out before sunrise or returning after an afternoon hike, climbing in and out of the Zodiacs quickly became part of our daily routine.
Dry landings became second nature.
Balancing cameras, snorkeling gear, backpacks, and water bottles while gracefully climbing into a moving boat (always hands free!)...well, that took a little more practice.
By the end of the trip, we had become surprisingly efficient.
Even so, after countless Zodiac rides throughout the trip, I think it's safe to say I won't miss climbing in and out of one anytime soon!
Every Day Started Before Sunrise
Most mornings began before the sun peeked over the horizon. We'd wake early, gather our gear, and head out for the day's first excursion while the islands were still quiet.
Overall, there was very little downtime.
Our days were filled with kayaking, snorkeling, hiking, photography, wildlife watching, meals together, and just enough time to shower before heading to the evening briefing and dinner.
The schedule was busy.
The days were long.
And somehow, we always found ourselves excited to do it all again the next morning.
Wildlife Around Every Corner
Extraordinary quickly became ordinary.
On our very first afternoon aboard the ship, we visited Las Bachas Beach for the second time, where flamingos searched for food in shallow lagoons while stingrays glided beneath crystal-clear water. We slipped into the ocean for another snorkel.
The following morning, we kayaked between North and South Plaza Islands, weaving through calm waters while curious Galápagos sea lions swam circles around our kayaks. Some lounged lazily on the rocks while others popped their heads out of the water as if to see who had come to visit.
That afternoon brought us to Santa Fe Island, home to towering prickly pear cactus forests and the island's endemic land iguanas. High above us, a Galápagos hawk circled patiently, reminding us that every island has its own unique ecosystem.
What amazed me most wasn't simply the number of animals we encountered—it was their complete lack of fear.
The birds continued tending their nests just feet away.
The iguanas barely acknowledged we were there.
The sea lions didn't scatter when we approached.
It made every encounter feel incredibly intimate.
A Snorkeler's Paradise
Anyone who knows Steve and me knows how much we love snorkeling.
We've visited the island of Bonaire many times and have logged well over one hundred snorkels there. It's considered the best place in the world for shore diving and snorkeling.
One morning we launched our kayaks at sunrise around Sombrero Chino, paddling through glassy water as Galápagos penguins darted nearby. Sea lions played effortlessly around us while blue-footed boobies dove headfirst into the ocean.
After breakfast, we returned to the water for what would become one of the most memorable snorkels of our lives.
Within minutes we saw Galápagos penguins, playful sea lions, green sea turtles, white-tip reef sharks, eagle rays, colorful reef fish, and even a marine iguana feeding underwater.
All.
In.
One.
Snorkel.
It felt almost unreal.
We've snorkeled in many beautiful places, but this one snorkel put the Galápagos in a category of its own.
Walking on Another Planet
One afternoon we landed at Sullivan Bay on Santiago Island.
If snorkeling revealed one side of the Galápagos, Sullivan Bay revealed another.
The island is covered by an enormous lava flow created during an eruption in 1897. Walking across it felt surreal. Twisted black rock stretched in every direction, interrupted only occasionally by tiny pioneer plants slowly reclaiming the landscape.
There were no towering trees.
Very little shade.
Just endless volcanic formations that looked more like the surface of the moon than Earth.
The hike had been described as "long, fast-paced, and strenuous."
They weren't exaggerating.
Standing there, surrounded by hardened lava and the deep blue Pacific Ocean, it was impossible not to appreciate how these islands were literally born from fire.
Life Between Adventures
Although our days were incredibly active, family meals together became one of the highlights of every day.
Breakfasts were filled with excitement about the early morning excursion and our plans for the reminder of the day.
Lunches became storytelling sessions as we compared wildlife sightings.
Dinners gave us the chance to relive the day's adventures together and discuss tomorrow's itinerary.
One evening we enjoyed a sunset wine tasting.
Another evening featured an Equator Crossing Celebration complete with music as we officially crossed from the Southern Hemisphere into the Northern Hemisphere.
Every Day Was Better Than the Last
One of the things we talked about was how impossible it became to choose a favorite day.
One day we'd kayak with sea lions.
The next we'd snorkel with penguins.
Then we'd hike across ancient lava fields.
Then we'd find ourselves standing just a few feet from nesting blue-footed boobies or watching frigatebirds soar overhead.
Every island had its own personality.
Every excursion revealed something completely different.
Every day left us wondering how a single destination could contain so much diversity.
By this point in the trip, we understood why so many people describe the Galápagos as one of the greatest wildlife destinations on Earth.
It wasn't just because of the number of animals.
It was because every encounter felt authentic.
Nothing was staged.
Nothing was behind fences.
Nature simply carried on around us, and for a brief moment, we were fortunate to be a part of it.
As incredible as our time had been, our expedition still had one final surprise waiting for us—Genovesa Island, a place often called "Bird Island."
Part 3: The Place That Changed the Way We See Nature
There comes a point on every great trip when you realize it's almost over.
For us, that moment arrived on our final full day. It was hard to believe 10 days had already passed.
Every day had been packed with unforgettable moments, yet there was still one island left to explore.
Our final full day was spent on Genovesa Island, often called Bird Island, and it didn't take long to understand why.
Steve and I don't mind being early risers, so when we had the opportunity to join the first excursion of the morning, we didn't hesitate. Before sunrise we quietly climbed into the Zodiac and headed toward Darwin Bay.
The sun had barely begun to light the sky when we stepped onto the beach.
Within minutes we were completely surrounded.
Birds.
Thousands and thousands of birds.
At one point we said it felt like we had wandered onto the set of Alfred Hitchcock's The Birds.
Only this wasn't a movie.
It was real.
Our naturalists patiently pointed out behaviors we never would have noticed on our own. They explained courtship rituals, nesting habits, migration patterns, and the remarkable adaptations that allow so many species to thrive on these isolated volcanic islands.
It was fascinating.
Somewhere along the way, something unexpected happened.
I became completely fascinated by birds.
Before this trip, if someone had asked whether I'd enjoy spending hours photographing birds, I probably would have laughed.
Apparently, the Galápagos has a way of creating bird lovers.
One Last Dive Beneath the Surface
After breakfast we geared up for another deep-water snorkel, this time along the dramatic cliffs of Genovesa.
By this point we had become comfortable grabbing our masks and fins, and eagerly waiting for the signal to jump into the water.
Even after several days of snorkeling, the underwater world continued to surprise us.
Schools of brilliantly colored fish darted through volcanic rock formations while sea life seemed to appear around every corner.
One of the things I'll remember most about snorkeling in the Galápagos wasn't simply the abundance of wildlife.
It was the setting.
Every snorkel took place in a completely different environment. One day we'd enter the water from a black lava shoreline. The next we'd float beside towering cliffs or pristine white sand beaches. Every island offered a new underwater landscape, making each experience feel completely unique.
Eighty-One Steps Worth Every Climb
That afternoon we tackled one final hike—Prince Philip's Steps.
The staircase itself is short, just eighty-one steps carved into the cliffside, but reaching the top felt like entering another world.
The trail wound up to an open landscape filled with nesting birds.
Nazca boobies.
Red-footed boobies.
Frigatebirds.
Everywhere.
Nature on Nature's Terms
The Galápagos isn't a zoo.
It isn't a wildlife park.
There are no fences.
No feeding schedules.
No carefully orchestrated animal encounters.
Everything happens on nature's terms.
One of the most remarkable concepts we learned and impossible to explain was ecological naivety.
Because these islands evolved with very few natural predators, many of the animals simply don't fear humans.
Sea lions nap beside hiking trails.
Blue-footed boobies continue incubating their eggs while visitors quietly pass nearby.
Marine iguanas barely lift their heads.
Giant tortoises continue grazing as cameras click all around them.
Instead of feeling like spectators, it felt as though nature had briefly allowed us to become part of it.
That feeling is difficult to describe.
It isn't something you simply see.
It's something you experience.
Saying Goodbye
We said goodbye and boarded Zodiacs and buses and ferries and more buses for one last excursion into the lush highlands of Santa Cruz Island.
The drive itself was beautiful.
As we climbed higher into the island, the dry volcanic coastline gradually gave way to rolling farmland, misty forests, lava tunnels, and towering Scalesia trees.
It felt like driving through an entirely different country.
Our final stop was Rancho El Manzanillo, where giant Galápagos tortoises roam freely across open pastures.
There is something incredibly humbling about standing beside an animal that can live for more than a century.
These gentle giants witnessed a world long before modern tourism, survived near extinction because of human activity, and today represent one of conservation's greatest success stories.
Watching them slowly wander through the grass was the perfect ending to our expedition.
No performance.
Just giant tortoises living exactly as they have for generations.
More Than Wildlife
When people ask what makes the Galápagos so special, it's tempting to list all the incredible animals we saw.
Blue-footed boobies.
Penguins.
Sea lions.
Marine iguanas.
Sharks.
Sea turtles.
Frigatebirds.
Flamingos.
Eagle rays.
Giant tortoises.
The list goes on.
But that's only part of the story.
The real magic of the Galápagos is the feeling you get while you're there.
It's waking before sunrise because you don't want to miss a single moment.
It's realizing your daily schedule revolves around tides instead of clocks.
It's sharing every meal with your family while reliving the day's adventures.
It's remembering what it feels like to simply observe.
To slow down.
To appreciate.
To wonder.
A Heart Full of Gratitude
As we began the long journey home—Baltra to Guayaquil, Guayaquil to Quito, Quito overnight to Houston, and finally back to Cleveland—I couldn't help but think about how incredibly fortunate we were.
Trips like this don't happen every day.
They require time.
Planning.
Generosity.
And people willing to dream big enough to make them happen.
I will forever be grateful to my mother and father-in-law for imagining this adventure and inviting all of us to be part of it.
They gave us so much more than a vacation.
They gave us shared experiences that our family will talk about for decades.
I also couldn't have imagined a better travel partner than Steve. Whether we were waking before dawn for another kayak excursion, searching for penguins beneath the surface, or comparing the thousands of bird photos I'd taken that day, every moment was made better because we experienced it together.
Of course, by the time we boarded our final flight, I jokingly declared that I needed a vacation from this vacation.
After countless hikes, snorkeling adventures, early mornings, buses, ferries, airplanes, and what felt like an endless number of Zodiac rides...
...I was more than ready to sleep in.
And yes, I was perfectly happy not climbing into another inflatable boat for a while.
Until Next Time...
The Galápagos gave us incredible photographs.
It gave us unforgettable wildlife encounters.
It gave us stories we'll tell for the rest of our lives.
But perhaps most importantly, it reminded us that there are still places on Earth where nature remains wonderfully, beautifully wild.
Places where animals live according to their own rhythms.
Places where conservation truly matters.
Places that inspire curiosity, humility, and awe.
Some trips are measured by the miles traveled or the passport stamps collected.
This one will always be measured by moments.
A blue-footed booby performing its unforgettable dance.
A sea lion gliding effortlessly beneath our kayaks.
A penguin darting through crystal-clear water.
A giant tortoise taking one slow, deliberate step after another.
And a family fortunate enough to experience it all together.
The Galápagos may be known as the wildest place on Earth, and it's a place we'll never forget.
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