Two Cities, Two Stories: Bari & Amsterdam
Some trips are planned carefully. Others slowly reveal themselves over time.
This one was a little of both.
Three years ago, we wandered into the old town of Bari, Italy, and completely fell in love. The quiet alleyways, spotless stone streets, laundry strung between balconies, and unassuming doorways that opened into something magical made it feel authentic, simple, and incredibly special. Before we left, we promised each other we would return someday.
Amsterdam, on the other hand, came into the picture in a more unexpected way. After visiting the Dutch island of Bonaire ten times over the years, we’ve met and spent time with many people from Amsterdam. Those conversations slowly sparked our curiosity about the city itself. I guess you could say our island adventures eventually led us to choose Amsterdam as the second leg of this trip.
In the end, we spent ten incredible days exploring two completely different cities almost entirely on foot, soaking in the food, culture, and atmosphere along the way.
Bari, Italy
Returning to Bari Vecchia
After a long but seamless day of travel in Polaris First Class š we finally arrived back in Italy.
After checking into our Airbnb, we knew exactly where our first stop had to be: a margherita pizza from L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele.We fell in love with this same simple, perfect pizza in Naples a few years ago and had been dreaming about it ever since. The thin, soft crust. The bright tomato sauce. The fresh mozzarella. The drizzle of olive oil. It absolutely did not disappoint and was the perfect way to kick off our return to Bari.
That evening we wandered through Bari Vecchia, the city’s historic old town, and instantly remembered why we loved it so much.
Life spills into the streets here. Nonnas sit outside their homes rolling fresh orecchiette pasta by hand. Laundry sways between balconies overhead. Narrow stone alleyways twist and turn through centuries of history.
Dinner that night was classic and unforgettable at Al Sorso Preferito, where we ordered two local specialties: the crispy, spicy pasta all’assassina (invented right here in Bari) and orecchiette with rapini and anchovies that tasted like pure Puglia.
We speak only a few words of Italian, and they spoke only a little English. Somehow it all worked out anyway. Lots of smiles, pointing at the menu, and “grazie mille.”
After dinner we wandered through the cobblestone streets under soft golden lights, the quiet hum of conversations drifting from open windows and the sea air moving through the narrow alleys.
It was romantic, peaceful, and grounding — the kind of night that makes you slow down and hold hands a little tighter.
And the perfect nightcap?
Pistachio gelato, enjoyed while strolling before calling it a night.
Just like that, we remembered exactly why we had wanted to come back.
Day Two: Walking Bari
Day two in Bari was filled with one thing above all else: walking.
Honestly, there is no better way to experience this city.
We started the morning with a private tour led by Gianluca, a true local born and raised in Bari. There is something special about seeing a place through the eyes of someone who has loved it their entire life.
He guided us through the old fish market, the winding stone alleyways of Bari Vecchia, the thousand-year-old Basilica of San Nicola, and explained the contrast between Bari’s historic old town and its much newer city center.
We also stopped to watch the famous Bari pasta ladies, who sit outside their homes shaping orecchiette pasta by hand as they have for generations.
Lunch called for a classic combination: margherita pizza and Aperol spritz at Al Solito Porzio. When in Italy, you simply don’t argue with that pairing.
Gelato followed, of course.
Dinner that night brought an unexpected plot twist. Despite Steve gently reminding me that I probably wouldn’t love it, I insisted on ordering the seafood platter at Biancofiore.
He was right.
That is a LOT of raw shellfish.
I tried. I really did.
But the real star of the meal was a dish we’ll never forget: homemade burrata-filled cappellacci with pumpkin cream sauce.
After one bite I declared, “This is uncomfortably delicious.”Steve paused and asked, “Uncomfortably… what?”
And I meant it. It was delicate, rich, perfectly balanced — the kind of dish you pause between bites just to process what’s happening.
Easily one of the best pasta dishes we’ve ever had.
Yes…I shared. I just wish we could go back
(for the pasta, not the shellfish š)!
Day Three: Olive Oil, Cheese & Wine
Day three may have been my love language.
Olives, cheese, and wine.
The countryside surrounding Bari is covered in vineyards and endless olive groves — and I truly mean endless. Puglia produces nearly 40% of Italy’s olive oil, and many of the trees here are between 1,000 and 2,000 years old. Their massive, twisted trunks look more like sculptures than trees.
Gianluca picked us up for a drive into the countryside where we visited Annese Olive Farm and tasted extra virgin olive oil while standing among trees that were alive before America existed.
Just your average Saturday.
Next we visited Lamapecora cheese farm for a burratina tasting — fresh, creamy, and still warm. After that experience, grocery store burrata will never be the same.
Then we arrived at Giovanni Aiello winery, where Giovanni himself walked us through the vineyards and his wines. Every label is hand-painted. Every bottle tells a story.
Lunch was served inside a literal wine barrel.
Every ingredient on the table was sourced within five kilometers — even the almonds.
It’s the kind of experience you know we’ll be talking about for years.
That evening we returned to Bari for an eight-course tasting menu with wine pairing at La Bul, which included smoked gray mullet, delicate ricotta cappellacci, and a dessert I would happily eat again and again.
We were also served horse — traditional in Puglia, less so where we come from — but we fully embraced the “when in Puglia” mindset.
Day Four: Alberobello
Our final day with Gianluca took us to one of the most unique landscapes in Italy: the Trulli of Alberobello.
These iconic limestone homes date back to the 14th and 15th centuries and were built without mortar so they could be quickly dismantled to avoid taxes. Today more than 1,500 still stand, their whitewashed walls and conical stone roofs creating what feels like a real-life fairytale village.
After wandering through the trulli, we lingered over a beautiful multi-course lunch at Evo Ristorante, enjoying local flavors and incredible olive oil at the perfectly unhurried Italian pace that makes you want to stay all afternoon.
Back in Bari that evening we spent our time doing what we had come to love most: wandering the streets of Bari Vecchia.
We created our own Old Town street food tour.
Focaccia from Panificio Fiore.
Panzerotti wrapped in paper.
Orecchiette al pomodoro.
Another margherita pizza (our fourth of the trip).
And finally, gelato.
Nearly every bite came from centuries-old storefronts and family recipes passed down through generations.
New Town was only steps away, but that day belonged entirely to Old Town.
Sometimes the best way to understand a city is simply to slow down and stay exactly where history lives.
....and the pastries and cappuccino...you can't forget about those! They will stay in your dreams forever!
Amsterdam, Netherlands
Our trip shifted gears when we arrived in Amsterdam.
The energy is completely different — buzzing canals, bicycles flying past in every direction, and historic buildings leaning slightly over the water.
Our first night kicked off with Dutch comfort food: fries, beer, Gouda cheese, sausage, mustard and bitterballen.
We followed that with a Machine Gun Kelly concert at Ziggo Dome.
Steve and I are not concert-goers, but when we learned MGK would be performing in Amsterdam on the day we arrived in Amsterdam...it was meant to be.
MGK is a native Clevelander and I am particularly fond of his music. Steve and I wore CLE sweatshirts loud and proud and it was a GREAT concert. He put on a show and even played "Till I die..." a special tribute to Cleveland š
Steve’s Birthday in Amsterdam
Day two was extra special: Steve’s birthday.
We spent the day wandering the canals, stopping for Gouda cheese tastings and the famous chocolate cookies from Van Stapele, a bakery that sells exactly one thing — warm chocolate cookies — and somehow still draws a line down the block.
After a week in Italy, Gouda had officially replaced mozzarella and French fries had taken the place of our daily margherita pizza.
That evening we celebrated with dinner at Restaurant 212, our first two-star Michelin restaurant...and a very expensive dining experience! There was incredible attention to detail, with each dish feeling like its own performance.
The multi-course tasting menu and wine pairings were extravagant, beautifully presented, and one of the most luxurious dining experiences we’ve shared.By the end we practically rolled out the door — grateful for the 30-minute walk back to the hotel.
Wandering Amsterdam
Day three was intentionally unplanned.
We visited the Anne Frank House, which was powerful, moving, and something that stays with you long after you leave.
From there we grabbed a stroopwafel at Lanskroon Bakery and continued on to Brouwerij ’t IJ, a windmill brewery where we enjoyed a couple local beers.
Later that evening we stopped at the Old Amsterdam Cheese Store before heading to Wynand Fockink for a traditional jenever tasting in a tiny historic tasting room that feels like stepping back in time.
Then came one of the most important food decisions of the trip: the Amsterdam apple pie challenge.
Two famous contenders: Winkel 43 and Papeneiland.
Both served their pies with fresh whipped cream (appeltaart met slagroom). Winkel 43 probably had the slightly better pie, but Papeneiland’s cozy brown bar atmosphere tipped the scales.
Markets & Final Night
Our last day began with a 45-minute walk to the Albert Cuyp Market, one of the largest outdoor markets in Europe.
Our first stop was a warm stroopwafel from Rudi’s Stroopwafels — fresh off the iron with gooey caramel inside.
We wandered through rows of food stalls before stumbling upon the charming Kaaskamer van Amsterdam, where we sipped champagne while selecting cheeses from a conveyor belt.
Later we grabbed hot crispy fries from the legendary Vlaams Friteshuis Vleminckx before resting our feet back at the hotel.
Our final dinner was at Michelin-starred Restaurant Daalder, where we chose the “Dennis’ Favorites” tasting menu.
There was caviar.
There was A5 Wagyu.
But the surprise winner of the night?
A stroopwafel ice cream sandwich.
Drool.
Apologies for all the food photos, but so much of the Michelin experience is in the presentation.
Two Cities, One Perfect Trip
Over ten days we explored two incredible cities almost entirely on foot, walking until our feet hurt and discovering the simple joys that make travel so memorable.
Bari reminded us why we fell in love with it — ancient alleyways, handmade pasta, olive groves, vineyards, and food that tastes like generations of tradition.
Amsterdam brought a completely different energy — canals, markets, bicycles everywhere, and an endless supply of fries, cheese, and stroopwafels.
Two very different cities.
But both delivered exactly what we love most when we travel:
Walkable streets.
Incredible food.
And memories we’ll be talking about for years.
Cheers to the next adventure.
✈️❤️
